My good friend Jeanne of Cook Sister! has kindly agreed to continue the series of gourmet city guides or Culinary City Snapshots (see side bar) on this blog... her insider tips and recommendations for this wonderfully vibrant city will be a must for anyone who travels there!
What's your country's cuisine in a nutshell?
We have a real Rainbow cuisine
because of our eventful history! Obviously, there is the indigenous cuisine which tends to be
rib-sticking wholesome food using local ingredients like wild spinach (marogo) and maize meal. Then there is the influence of the Dutch
settlers who brought their cuisine with them in the 1600s. The other thing that
the Dutch brought were Indonesian slaves and they had a huge impact on the
early cuisine at the Cape. Gently spiced Indonesian dishes can easily be
seen as the roots of favourites such as bobotie and sosaties. There is definitely also a frontiersman food
tradition created when settlers started travelling into the country’s interior
in ox wagons – this is where we get our love for cooking things over open fires
like potjiekos, and preserving fruit and meat by drying. The English settlers also left their mark
with traditional roasts and desserts like blancmange. And the Indians who were brought to work on
the sugar cane fields in Natal have left an indelible mark with their
curries. So we really are a foodie
melting pot! But in a nutshell I’d say
that our cuisine is driven by our unique local ingredients.
What's the current food trend?
Locally sourced ingredients have hit SA in a big way – it’s no longer seen as
cool to serve imported berries in the dead of winter, but rather something
local and seasonal. Artisanal products
are also on the rise, with a welcome surge in the number of artisanal bakeries
and cheese makers, even in smaller towns. Sushi still reigns supreme as the acid test for any Cape
Town seafood restaurant. Grazing menus consisting of multiple small
dishes have recently made their appearance.
What
local food is not to be missed?
Fresh seafood is a must in Cape Town – crayfish, snoek, local oysters – you name it. If you are a carnivore, biltong (air-dried spiced beef) is another one,
as is ostrich steak. The unique Cape Malay cuisine of the Bo-Kaap is a
gently-spiced treat – make sure you try bobotie,
pickled fish and denningvleis. And
nobody should leave South Africa without trying a koeksuster (a plaited, deep-fried pastry dipped in
syrup).
Which
local food might I want to steer clear of no matter how much locals insist?
If somebody offers you a “smiley” and you are of a sensitive disposition, just
say no. It’s a whole sheep’s head boiled
and then barbecued till the lips pull back and reveal the teeth – hence the
name. Also, the harvesting of abalone
(known locally as perlemoen) has been completely banned as a result of
rampant poaching – so if somebody offers you some, just say no!
What are the food oddities in your country?
Well, that depends on your definition of odd!
Some people might find it odd to cut beef fillets into long strips,
brine them, salt them and then hang them in a hot dry place for a while before
gnawing on them! We, on the other hand,
call it biltong. I would personally
class the eating of mopane worms as being a little odd. Oh, and we add apricot jam or a packet of
brown onion soup powder to almost every conceivable recipe!
What to bring home from my trip?
If there weren’t so many damn restrictions on carrying meat across borders, I
would definitely say biltong (spiced, air-dried beef) or droewors (dry, spiced
sausage) as they will last the longest so you can make your memories go
far. But they can also lead to a hefty
fine if customs officials find them in your luggage (the sniffer dogs of the US
Customs are particularly fond of them, I hear!). Products that are unique to South Africa and
less likely to excite Customs include our excellent fruit leathers, tins of
granadilla (passionfruit) pulp, some spicy atchar and Mrs Ball’s chutney, cape
Malay curry spice mixes, melon & ginger preserve, green figs in syrup,
tinned waterblommetjies, Peppermint Crisp chocolates (for their crazy,
Kryptonite-coloured filling and super-minty taste) or rooibos chai tea. For your inner gourmet, you could also get
some of our excellent local olive oil (like Morgenster), wine vinegar, verjuice
(South Africa is one of the few countries that make it), or the Cape Herb & Spice
Company’s excellent range of flavoured fleur de sel (wasabi is my favourite).
Which cuisine features most
strongly in your city?
Cape Town’s most unique cuisine
is definitely Cape Malay cuisine. This sweetly spiced style of
cooking originated from the predominantly Malaysian and Indonesian slaves
brought to the country by the Dutch East India Company in the 1600s. The cuisine features complex spiced dishes
like bobotie, denningvleis and sosaties and often includes
fruit in meat dishes. The place to go
for this is definitely the Bokaap, where you can eat like a local at
Biesmiellah. Another emerging cuisine is a sort of Afro-fusion, using unique
local ingredients to give a twist to classic European dishes
Which are your favourite gourmet addresses?
Neighbourhoods Market (Cape town’s original gourmet market, featuring
over 100 specialty traders, fine-food purveyors, organic merchants, artisan
goods, gourmet products, local farmers, seasonal items, plants & herbs,
fresh produce, boutique wine estates, micro-breweries)
Giovanni’s
Deliworld (a proper Italian deli in the heart of Green Point selling
everything from oils, spice blends and Parma ham to ready-made dinners
including fresh pasta, trays of seared carpaccio with olive oil and Parmesan
shavings, or melanzane romeo (fried aubergine slices with pecorino and
parsley).
Atlas
Trading Company (Bokaap spice
traders that have been in business for half a century and will sell you anything
from fresh turmeric to specially mixed masalas.
Plus the spices will fragrance your clothes for hours after you’ve left
the store!)
Melissa’s
(various shops throughout Cape Town selling beautifully packaged hand-made foods and prepared meals free from
preservatives and artificial colourings)
What's your city's attitude to food in general?
Capetonians
see eating out as their birthright, and it shows in the number and variety of
excellent restaurants available. Sitting
at a pavement table in summer with a plate and a glass of something, watching
the world go by is a favourite pastime. With the influx of tourists into the city, the standard of food is
generally very high and many of the country’s top fine dining restaurants (like
Aubergine and La Colombe) are in Cape Town.
Which area is best for food – where to browse for restaurants while
on the go?
The easy
option would be the V&A Waterfront – it’s a huge development in the middle
of Cape Town’s working harbour where
you can stroll and check out the menus of dozens of restaurants before making
your choice. These could range from
cheap & cheerful fish and chip joints like Quay Four, to the German
beerhall at Paulaner, to excellent seafood at Baia, to Afro-fusion at Emily’s,
to fine dining at oneWaterfront. Other
areas that features a quirky mix of restaurants are Oranjezicht, or the CBD,
particularly around Church/Kerk, Long and Keerom streets.
What's the biggest flop and best avoided?
Generally, I’d say to steer clear of downmarket chains like McDonalds or
generic hotel restaurants which will largely serve modern European
cuisine. Live a little! Try and search
out independent restaurants serving local cuisine (like the excellent
Biesmillah), or doing interesting things with local ingredients, like ostrich
in green Thai curry sauce, springbok carpaccio or fynbos bavarois.
What are the big names in the restaurant scene?
Outside Cape Town itself in the
winelands, Le Quartier Francais, La Colombe and Reuben’s are all consistently
in the top 10 restaurants in the country. In the city, Aubergine, Jardine, 5 Flies, Ginja and the Savoy Cabbage
all have an excellent name. The latest
hot openings (as of April 2009) include Carne, Nobu and Gordon’ Ramsay’s
Maze. For a sumptuous high tea, there is
only one place: the iconic Mount Nelson
Hotel.
What
are the most reliable restaurant guides for your area?
The Eat Out restaurant guide is bulky but provides an excellent and
comprehensive review of the country’s restaurants (they also have a website). Many
restaurants in the winelands are comprehensively reviewed in John Platter’s
South African Wine Guide. There are also plenty of reliable online
resources like restaurants and dining out.
What to be aware of when dining out?
There are
very few places where anything more than smart casual would be required – a
collared shirt is probably as formal as you’d need. Reservations are advised, particularly
over weekends or high season (late November to Easter). Tipping is expected,
and 10% is a good starting point. Although pickpocketing or bag snatching in
restaurants is not rife, when dining out at night be sure to park in well-lit
areas or get a taxi to drop you off and pick you up at the door, particularly if
you are a tourist and unfamiliar with the area.
Addresses
of places mentioned:
Neighbourhoods Market
The Old Biscuit Mill
373-375 Albert Road
Woodstock, Cape Town
Tel. 084 414
4554
Melissa’s
Various stores – see website for addresses
Giovanni’s Deliworld
103 Main Road
Green Point, Cape Town
Tel: 021 434 6893
Atlas Trading Company
94 Wale Street
Cape Town
Tel: 021 423 4361
Aubergine
39 Barnet Street
Gardens, Cape Town
Tel. 021 465 4909
Jardine
185 Bree Street (cnr of Bloem)
Cape Town
Tel. 021 424 5640
La Colombe
Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate
Constantia, Cape Town
Tel. 021 794 2390
Quay Four
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town
Tel. 021
419 2008
Paulaner Braeuhaus & Restaurant
Shop 18/19, Clock Tower Precinct
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town
Tel. 021 418
9999
Baia
6262 Victoria Wharf
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town
Tel. 021 421 0935 / 36 / 37
Emily’s
Suite 202, The Clock Tower
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town
Tel. 021
421 1133
Biesmiellah
Icon House
Lower Loop Street, Foreshore
Cape Town
Tel. 021 423 0850
The Tasting Room @ Le Quartier Francais
16 Huguenot Road
Franschhoek
Tel. 021 876 2151
Reuben’s
19 Huguenot Road
Franschoek
Tel. 021 876 3772
5 Flies
14-16 Keerom Street
Cape Town
Tel. 021 424 4442
Ginja & Shoga
121 Castle Street
Bo-Kaap
Cape Town
Tel. 021 426 2369
Savoy Cabbage
101 Hout Street
Cape Town
Tel. 021 424 2626
Carne
70 Keerom Street
Cape Town
Tel. 021 424 3460
Maze
One&Only Resort, Dock Road
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town
Tel. 021 431
5222
Nobu
One&Only Resort, Dock Road
V&A Waterfront
Cape Town
Tel. 021 431
5111
Mount Nelson
76 Orange Street
Cape Town
Tel. 021 483 1948
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